Backpacking South America

We have developed a small taste for empanadas.  Empanadas are essentially a small calzone-like pocket stuffed with different fillings, i.e., beef, chicken, ham & cheese, sausage and cheese, creamed corn and sweet potatoes, etc. 

During our stay in Buenos Aires, we soon discovered a popular lunch item among porteños – Empanadas.  They’re fast, cheap and filling.  We were soon addicted and began to search for restaurants with reportedly good empanadas and continued to return to those that did.  Eventually, I even learned how to make some of my own with our host, Liliana (video and photos below).

Empanadas were introduced to the Americas by the Spaniards, who incorporated the empanada in their diet during the Arab occupation of southern Spain.  In Argentina, empanadas take on certain flair depending on the region.  For example, in Salta (northwest corner), we’re told they’re spicy and very juicy.  In Cordoba, they are a bit sweeter with sugar and egg.  Tucuman includes raisins and olives and in Mendoza, they have equal parts meat and onion. Buenos Aires doesn’t seem to have a style of its own per se, but has taken aspects from the different regions. 

We’re excited to continue traveling through all the regions of Argentina so that we can taste and enjoy the many wonderful flavors.  I always find that one of the best ways to understand and connect with people is over food.  We agreed that we’re willing to sacrifice our trim physiques in order to experience the different variations of empanadas and to meet the people that prepare them.

But first, we wanted to share a clip of me making empanadas and review two of our favorite restaurants.

My First Attempt at Making Empanadas

We had a wonderful time living with our host for 3 weeks.  Lili was very generous, talkative, had a very comfortable space for us and was a great cook.  For three weeks, she prepared something new every night, no repeats.  It was great.  When she said we were going to have empanadas, I asked if she would be willing to teach me.  She said of course.  During the day, she prepared the filling, so at dinner time, it was time to stuff, seal and cook the empanadas.  Here is a short video on the process.

So, as you can see, the folding part is a little difficult, but I think by the end of the trip, I should be a master.  They sell the empanada discs in the store, much like pie crusts in the states.   We will be sure to keep you posted on my advances as an empanada master.

La Morada – the friendly neighborhood restaurant

Located 2 blocks from the school, La Morada became our neighborhood hangout for lunch.  We went at least a few times a week.  Our favorites were the spicy beef, sausage and cheese, and chicken empanadas.  Typically, 3-4 empanadas each and a coke to share was enough.  

The restaurant has an old-timey feel with banners from local fútbol clubs, memorabilia and old bottles serving as the primary decoration.  It feels as if it has been the same on the inside for 30 or 40 years, which makes it feel really comfortable and a great place to grab a bite to eat.  While it’s hard to tell in the pictures (we had a late lunch on that day) the place was always packed for lunch and usually there was a small wait.  You enter the restaurant, grab a table, the waiter leaves a small piece of paper (1/4 of a full sheet), with all the empanada flavors and the few dishes they serve, and a pen.  Once you know what you want, you fill in your order.  The waiter grabs it and 5-6 minutes later you have piping hot empanadas. 

La Morada’s empanadas are flavorful and the shell is slightly thicker than most with a nice crispiness on the outside and thin layer of soft bread, followed by the juicy, delicious fillings.  Typically, the shell gets lightly blackened in some places and they are always fresh, unlike some restaurants that prefer to prepare and reheat their empanadas in the microwave.   I never tired of La Morada and can’t wait to return and relive the joy of the Carne Picante Empanada.

Cumana – Here’s the beef

Cumana became a favorite restaurant due to good food, prices and ambiance.  It seems that Argentine’s and Argentinean restaurants prefer to have bright, well lit restaurants.  Cumana offered the atmosphere we like, slightly darker décor, dimmer lights making for a less sterile and more inviting environment. 

In addition to their wonderful empanadas, Cumana served casseroles and other delicious dishes – see our Recoleta post.

Cumana offers a different style of the empanada.  They use small pieces of steak instead of ground beef.  They offer a creamed corn, sweet potato and cheese empanada that brings a sweetness not found in other empanada offerings.  At Cumana, the empanada has a thinner, flaky, less crispy crust, which is tasty and fresh, but it doesn’t enhance the empanada experience.  Cumana serves traditional northeastern argentine cuisine and we enjoyed everything we tried.