Backpacking South America

Our last week in Mendoza, we decided to enter full-on tourist mode.  After researching a few tour agencies, we chose Trout & Wine, because theyoffered the greatest bang for the buck, and we were not disappointed in the slightest.

It was a decadent, full day tour featuring some of the best, most unique wineries in the Luyan de Cuyo region of Mendoza. We visited 4 bodegas, one of which featured a 5 course, 5 wine lunch.

Bodega Benegas

Our first stop was definitely our favorite. It’s almost unfortunate because the bar was set so high from the start. The Benegas family used to be part owners of one of the largest wine producers in the country. In the 70s, as Argentina suffered through an economic crisis, the family was forced to sell the vineyards after 4 generations of operating in the family.

The eldest son went off to Buenos Aires, studied and eventually became a wealthy investment banker. After being so successful, he realized his greatest desire was to be a 5th generation winemaker. So back he returned to Mendoza, where he found an old bodega whose roof had collapsed and walls were crumbling. He bought the building, did a complete overhaul and built his house on the premises. He also sought out some of the finest old vines in the valley.

The result is an immaculate bodega and superb wines. By far, our favorite was the 2003 Reserve Cabernet Franc. Aside from being delicious, it was so unique and very different from anything else we have tried. They also had a delicious Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon.

It was strange to go through our first tasting (5 wines) without trying Argentina’s signature grape, Malbec. I think this is reflective of Benegas’s philosphy of creating unique wines that expand the definition of an Argentine wine.

Bodega Tapiz

Our next stop was Tapiz, which was the most informative tour of the day. We covered all topics from the growing techniques of the agronomists to the cellaring of the wines.  It also had a clear view to the Andes – a great spot for a few photos.

And, my favorite part was pouring and tasting directly from the tank.

Ruca Malen

Our lunch was at Bodega Ruca Malen. We were promised a 5 course, 5 wine meal, and we weren’t given anything less. Set among the vines, Ruca Malen has a direct, unobstructed view of the snow-capped Andes from the dining room. The view was perhaps the finest course of the meal.

The main course, a filet minot, was paired with two wines, a cabernet sauvignon and a Reserve Malbec from the Kinean line. All the wines were very good, but the Kinean Malbec was exceptional and really stood out in comparison to the full lineup and to other Malbecs in Argentina.

We finished lunch with a final photo op of the Andes. The clouds started to roll in, so we didn’t get the full effect, but it was still quite impressive.

Clos de Chacras

Our final stop was the small boutique winery of Clos de Chacras. It was hard to completely enjoy the winery and the wines, we were so full and had already consumed so much wine.

This was a beautiful boutique winery with wines that were very good, but nothing that surpassed what we had already tasted.