Backpacking South America

We shipped out to Pampa Linda, right outside of town from Bariloche, for a few days. We decided to hike Paso de las Nubes, which is at best a two day hike, starting in Pampa Linda, which is supposed to be the easier direction to cross. We found a really cute Hosteria (Hosteria Pampa Linda), like a Bed & Breakfast, with a long, rich history that we just couldn’t pass up.

It’s this cute little Inn that can accommodate about 36 people. It’s now run by the granddaughter of the original owner. They are at the base of the massive Mount Tronador, which is located in the southern part of the Andes Mountains between Chile and Argentina. It’s popular with mountaineers, but it’s serious work to get to the top and is only open to the most experienced climbers. The final ascent, we were told, is only done in Spring, when there is ice on the last face. In Summer, the rock is so fragile that it crumbles when you try to climb it. The mountain is about 3400 meters, which is over 10,000 feet. Sorry, but you couldn’t pay me enough money to walk across a glacier. But, boy is it beautiful from where we were stood.

The first day we walked the road to the glacier and a waterfall, reaching the base of Mount Tronador, which means Thunder. It’s an extinct volcano, but it has large, active glaciers. And I can attest to the fact that it received the correct name. It was pretty amazing to watch the ice fall from the glacier and cascade down the rock face into the lake at the bottom.

It was a beautiful day and it was a nice hike, about 10 miles. We were tired by the end of the day, especially since we had to battle the biting horseflies which were so annoying here! But, when we returned to the Inn, dinner was ready and waiting.

Since we decided to take a vacation from our vacation and we had a nice warm up hike the day before, we thought we’d take this second day to just rest and relax. We were in an area without any internet, so no room for distractions. We were looking forward to a day to sleep in! But, there’s no rest for the weary. There’s always work to be done.

Hosteria Pampa Linda is a rather self-sustaining operation. They have their own garden, cows and horses, and they make their own cheese. Cheese? Did somebody say cheese? Well, we were intrigued. We wanted to learn how they made their own cheese.

So, we got up early about 7AM and headed to the barn to milk some cows and see how they separated the milk from the cream, and eventually, make cheese and taste some good ‘ole fresh cows’ milk. (Grandpa, it was nothing like your set up.)

(Un)Surprisingly, I was pretty much a natural at milking cows, but it is hard work. It didn’t take long for my hands to cramp up. Jared on the other hand, well, it was obvious where he came from…he had “city boy” written all over him.

We had a wonderful time in Pampa Linda and there are so many trails to choose from.  In addition to the hosteria, there is a nice refugio next door and a couple campsites along the river. It’s truly a beautiful, quiet and peaceful area in the shadow of Mount Tronador, which reminds us of just how small we really are. Amazing!