Backpacking South America

After 3 bus rides and 20 hours of travel, we finally arrived in Cafayate – and the trip was well worth it.  I would have to say that so far, this has been one of our most favorite stops along the way.  It is a quaint desert/mountain town with a small town of yore feel.  People leave their bikes unlocked, front doors are left open and the people are just extremely nice.

Cafayate is also known for its high altitude wines (1400 meters – 3800 meters) that tend to be bold and very distinct.  It also produces two grapes distinct to this region – Torrontes and Tannat.  Torrontes is a white wine that typically has a very sweet, floral nose, but is very dry when it goes down.  Tannat, like Malbec, is a minor variety that is typically used in blends in France, but has found a home in the high altitude, hot climate of Cafayate.

Word of caution – due to the altitude, the grapes tend to be more concentrated and the result are wines that are typically 14-15% alcohol – so be careful.

Our First Day

We headed out with gusto and walked 2km outside of town to Bodega El Esteco, which is a fairly large production facility.  We received a great tour and a decent tasting.  We decided that there was more to taste, so we each ordered another glass, one from the Don David line and the other from the Ciclos line. 

Bodega Nanni

Our next stop was Bodega Nanni, an organic winery.  The bodega was located back in the center of town.  We arrived just as a very large tour group was starting their tasting.  When we were finally able to taste the wines, we were surprised, but not impressed.  They were all good examples of their style, but nothing unique.   

 Bodega El Porvenir

Our final winery of the day was Bodega El Porvenir – definitely the highlight of the day.  It was just Carra and I on the tour.  Our guide was very friendly and we had a great time talking with her.  The grounds, production facilities and cellars were incredible. 

Fortunately for us, they had a special group come through in the morning and had numerous open bottles of some of their finest wines.  We tasted the Malbec, Tannat, and a yet-to-be released blend (2005 harvest, 20 months in oak, 4 years in the bottle – it’s only had 2 years in the bottle).  All were exquisite.  Our favorite was the forthcoming Blend.

Our last week in Mendoza, we decided to enter full-on tourist mode.  After researching a few tour agencies, we chose Trout & Wine, because theyoffered the greatest bang for the buck, and we were not disappointed in the slightest.

It was a decadent, full day tour featuring some of the best, most unique wineries in the Luyan de Cuyo region of Mendoza. We visited 4 bodegas, one of which featured a 5 course, 5 wine lunch.

Bodega Benegas

Our first stop was definitely our favorite. It’s almost unfortunate because the bar was set so high from the start. The Benegas family used to be part owners of one of the largest wine producers in the country. In the 70s, as Argentina suffered through an economic crisis, the family was forced to sell the vineyards after 4 generations of operating in the family.

The eldest son went off to Buenos Aires, studied and eventually became a wealthy investment banker. After being so successful, he realized his greatest desire was to be a 5th generation winemaker. So back he returned to Mendoza, where he found an old bodega whose roof had collapsed and walls were crumbling. He bought the building, did a complete overhaul and built his house on the premises. He also sought out some of the finest old vines in the valley.