Posts Tagged Cumana

Empanadas… So Good, So Good

Posted by treksa on Thursday, 17 September, 2009

We have developed a small taste for empanadas.  Empanadas are essentially a small calzone-like pocket stuffed with different fillings, i.e., beef, chicken, ham & cheese, sausage and cheese, creamed corn and sweet potatoes, etc. 

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During our stay in Buenos Aires, we soon discovered a popular lunch item among porteños – Empanadas.  They’re fast, cheap and filling.  We were soon addicted and began to search for restaurants with reportedly good empanadas and continued to return to those that did.  Eventually, I even learned how to make some of my own with our host, Liliana (video and photos below).

Empanadas were introduced to the Americas by the Spaniards, who incorporated the empanada in their diet during the Arab occupation of southern Spain.  In Argentina, empanadas take on certain flair depending on the region.  For example, in Salta (northwest corner), we’re told they’re spicy and very juicy.  In Cordoba, they are a bit sweeter with sugar and egg.  Tucuman includes raisins and olives and in Mendoza, they have equal parts meat and onion. Buenos Aires doesn’t seem to have a style of its own per se, but has taken aspects from the different regions. 

We’re excited to continue traveling through all the regions of Argentina so that we can taste and enjoy the many wonderful flavors.  I always find that one of the best ways to understand and connect with people is over food.  We agreed that we’re willing to sacrifice our trim physiques in order to experience the different variations of empanadas and to meet the people that prepare them.

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Meat – it’s what’s for dinner, or lunch

Posted by treksa on Wednesday, 16 September, 2009

Argentina is known for its meat.  In fact, they eat more beef per capita than any other country (Wikipedia has the amount at 68kg/year – that’s 150 pounds).  So, we knew we were in for red meat, but just how much is overwhelming.

Heap of Meat – Our First Night

It was late, and we were tired and hungry.  It was our first night in Buenos Aires.  We were still adjusting to this schedule of not eating dinner until around 9:30, which is still early in most restaurants.  We had actually reached a point that first night where we were beyond hungry and just tired, but we knew we needed to eat something.  So, we walked around San Telmo, passing by restaurants, peeking in windows to see if anybody else was eating.  We had heard that most restaurants do not open for dinner before 9, however, we saw a number of places open, but no one seemed to be eating food.  So, “when in Rome…do as the Romans.”  So, we did. 

Despite our ache for food, we popped into a bar and grabbed a drink.  Here were our options:

Water: AR$6
Coca-Cola: AR$6.50
Beer: AR$10
Glass of Wine: AR$5

We ordered our first glass of wine, a very generous pour for only $1.50 US and a beer – about the same as the states.  We thought, wow, this is going to be a great journey.  After passing the time, it was about 9:45; we thought for sure people were eating dinner, but just not in our bar.  So we decided to move on and find some place serving food.  We couldn’t possibly be the only ones eating food in a restaurant.  We finally stumbled upon a place where people were eating.  We checked out the menu, couldn’t really distinguish the different cuts of beef, so we decided to give it a shot and be adventurous. 

At this point, I was not very hungry…it was almost 10:30.  I’m not use to eating this late…it’s almost bedtime.   Jared convinced me to order a steak – so I opted for a “Bifecita,” whatever cut it is…it should be small.  I also decided to order some papa fritas.  We scouted the restaurant to see if we could determine portion size, but couldn’t quite gauge what to anticipate.  Jared decided to order “Asado.”   From previous research, we knew Asado was a type of beef, similar to a roast.  (Well, please read the fine print.)  The server asked “for one?” but after the fact, we believe he said “for one!”  My Bifecita was the size of a normal steak.  So much for small.  Jared’s Asado…was actually four steaks.  And the papa fritas, were a huge portion.  We laughed so hard. 

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Bifecita Steak 1 in front, steak 2, 3 + 4 behind the potatoes

Apparently, Asado is something that is shared amongst the table.  It can be even larger than the meal Jared received, but Jared asked for an Asado portion for one.  It’s a very popular meal choice, but it’s usually a meal that everyone takes part in.  Needless to say, there may not be enough moneda, but there is plenty of beef. 

And the meat just keeps coming…

By the end of our time in Buenos Aires, we had actually grown to love our beef dinners… and lunches.  We just became wise on what and how to order.  We know our cuts and we know when it is appropriate to share an order.  Below are two notable steak dinners we would like to share, conveniently, both restaurants offered a penguin of wine (which is about 2/3 of a bottle served in a penguin pitcher where the wine comes out the mouth) for 10-12 pesos (about $3.50).

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