Backpacking South America

Our plans aren’t always well suited to the weather forecast. For example, we decided it was a good idea to rent bikes on the hottest day of the week – which was also the hottest day of our time in Argentina.

We left early (9:30) and headed to Bodega Etchart (3km outside town) and got stuck on a tour with high school students from Jujuy. It was by far the worst Bodega we’ve visited. Etchart is a huge winery, however, we only had the opportunity to taste two wines, both of which were Torrontes (white wine), one was dry and the other was a sweet wine. We didn’t even have the opportunity to taste any red wines. So, we quickly hopped back on our bikes and pedaled as fast as we could to get far, far away from there.

Our next planned stop was Finca De Las Nubes. We had heard it was a bit outside of town (5km) and on a hill, but completely reachable by bike. Someone forgot to mention, however, that the hill was steep and the road we needed to travel was not gravel, but ROCK with RIDGES. By the time we arrived, we were extremely hot and exhausted. We took some time to cool off and rehydrate (with water first) and then tasted some delicious wine.

We had the best Torrentes we’ve tasted so far. We met a Brit in our tasting. He had actually walked all the way to Finca de las Nubes and ironically enough, he was staying at our same hostel. We befriended him and he joined us for tapas on the patio and shared an ice cold bottle or two of Torrentes. We had a gorgeous view of the whole valley, good food and great conversation.

Two and half hours later, he left for town and we continued up the road to the river, where we had heard there were some beautiful waterfalls. I would say that we happened upon this man who asked us if we would like to go see the waterfalls, but it turns out that he really happened upon us. After finding a place to store our bikes, this man said “to come.” We weren’t quite sure where to “come to,” but we thought perhaps he was just going to show us where the path started, but we soon realized that perhaps he was going to be our guide.

As we traveled along, scaling the mountain, we soon became very comfortable with the idea of having a guide. We would have never found these waterfalls without him. They were hardly trails that we were on.

After 2 hours of hiking in the heat, we finally arrived at our destination. The waterfall was beautiful. Jared decided to go for a quick dip, while I decided that cooling off my feet to the point of numbness was enough for me. The water was freezing.

On our way we found a fresh water spring where we were able to refill our water bottle and it was some of the best water we have had here, cold and refreshing.

We had learned that our guide had been navigating this river since he was 8. Now he looked to be in his 30’s.

On our way down, we detoured a bit to view a second waterfall.

To get back on the trail home, we decided to take “the road less traveled,” since our guide said it was much faster. While demonstrating this faster way, he completely disappeared into a cliff and scaled to the top behind the rocks. I was beginning to wonder what this faster path was going to look like. We followed him through the hole in the cliff about 7 feet off the ground. Once he was through and we could see him, we descended a bit to help us out. Once we saw him again, he said, “You’re adventurous” and proceeded to give me his had to help pull me through the hole. “Here we go,” was all I could think. “I’m now committed.”

When we finally arrived back at the starting point, an hour and half later, we sure worked up an appetite. We hopped on our bikes and road the rocks home. My whole insides got jostled around to the point where I think by body was still vibrating several hours after I got off the bike. Thankfully, the whole ride home was downhill. My main focus the whole way down was not to flip over the handlebars or fall off the bike.

Fortunately, there were amazing views of the sun setting on the valley.

We made it home safe and had a great dinner, but I had bruises on my hands for 2 days straight from just holding onto the bike. This was easily the worst bike ride of my life.

After 3 bus rides and 20 hours of travel, we finally arrived in Cafayate – and the trip was well worth it.  I would have to say that so far, this has been one of our most favorite stops along the way.  It is a quaint desert/mountain town with a small town of yore feel.  People leave their bikes unlocked, front doors are left open and the people are just extremely nice.

Cafayate is also known for its high altitude wines (1400 meters – 3800 meters) that tend to be bold and very distinct.  It also produces two grapes distinct to this region – Torrontes and Tannat.  Torrontes is a white wine that typically has a very sweet, floral nose, but is very dry when it goes down.  Tannat, like Malbec, is a minor variety that is typically used in blends in France, but has found a home in the high altitude, hot climate of Cafayate.

Word of caution – due to the altitude, the grapes tend to be more concentrated and the result are wines that are typically 14-15% alcohol – so be careful.

Our First Day

We headed out with gusto and walked 2km outside of town to Bodega El Esteco, which is a fairly large production facility.  We received a great tour and a decent tasting.  We decided that there was more to taste, so we each ordered another glass, one from the Don David line and the other from the Ciclos line. 

Bodega Nanni

Our next stop was Bodega Nanni, an organic winery.  The bodega was located back in the center of town.  We arrived just as a very large tour group was starting their tasting.  When we were finally able to taste the wines, we were surprised, but not impressed.  They were all good examples of their style, but nothing unique.   

 Bodega El Porvenir

Our final winery of the day was Bodega El Porvenir – definitely the highlight of the day.  It was just Carra and I on the tour.  Our guide was very friendly and we had a great time talking with her.  The grounds, production facilities and cellars were incredible. 

Fortunately for us, they had a special group come through in the morning and had numerous open bottles of some of their finest wines.  We tasted the Malbec, Tannat, and a yet-to-be released blend (2005 harvest, 20 months in oak, 4 years in the bottle – it’s only had 2 years in the bottle).  All were exquisite.  Our favorite was the forthcoming Blend. However, the El Porvenir, Laborum Tannat was the biggest surprise.  After tasting Tannat at El Esteco and Nanni, we had very low expectations for the wine because we felt the tannins were just too much and they seemed too heavy handed.  But, El Porvenir’s Laborum Tannat brought something to the table every other sample didn’t have – balance and complexity.  So, we walked away with a bottle of Tannat – 1 of 6,500 produced from the 2005 vintage.

Goat Cheese Farm

Our final stop of the day was the local cheese company, Queso de Cabra.  Located another 2km walk out of town, we headed down the dusty road for a tour and tasting of the local cheeses.  Touted as a goat cheese farm, we got the tour, saw a lot of goats and a few cows.  Once we reached the tasting room however, they were out of goat cheese and could only provide tastings of the cow cheese – which was still quite tasty and we ended up walking out with a large chunk to enjoy later.

Our final tourist act in Mendoza was to rent bikes and wander through Maipu, another great wine region right outside Mendoza. Maipu was the first wine area around Mendoza and therefore has some of the oldest wineries in Argentina.

After a 40 minute bus ride from the city, we arrived at the bike rental (Maipu Bikes) and were on our bikes just before 10 am. Knowing that we would drink our share of wine that day – we decided to go to the furthest destination (about 5 miles) first. Along the way though, we were treated to some amazing views of the Andes.

Carinae

Our first bodega was the boutique winery Carinae, which produces some high quality wines. Started by a retired French couple, they produce a wide range of wines. Perhaps because we arrived so early, we were the only ones on the first tour that day. We had an exceptional tour and got to learn so much about the winery and the owners.

There were a couple tasting options, so we chose the basic tasting and the reserve tasting, which meant that between the two of us, we tried 8 different wines. We enjoyed all the wines and this turned out to be our favorite winery of the day.

Tempus Alba

Our next stop was Tempus Alba, a very modern winery that produces several quality wines. There was a self guided tour, but that didn’t provide much information. This winery didn’t have a tasting per se, but had an excellent wine bar on a terrace where you could purchase wine by the glass or a flight of wines (4 wines). The great benefit was that they had an excellent menu for food and a great cheese plate. So we decided to enjoy the great view of the mountains, sample the wines and indulge in the cheeses. While not as cozy as the boutique Carinae, it was a nice afternoon stop.

La Rural

Our final stop of the day was at La Rural, which has one of the most impressive wine museums we’ve found. They are also the producers of San Felipe wine, which comes in a unique bottle and is found all over Argentina. The tour was great but they only provided a tasting of their bottom of the line wine in the bodega.

We had a great day, mostly because it was great to get out on our bikes and to enjoy the incredible scenery.

Our last week in Mendoza, we decided to enter full-on tourist mode.  After researching a few tour agencies, we chose Trout & Wine, because theyoffered the greatest bang for the buck, and we were not disappointed in the slightest.

It was a decadent, full day tour featuring some of the best, most unique wineries in the Luyan de Cuyo region of Mendoza. We visited 4 bodegas, one of which featured a 5 course, 5 wine lunch.

Bodega Benegas

Our first stop was definitely our favorite. It’s almost unfortunate because the bar was set so high from the start. The Benegas family used to be part owners of one of the largest wine producers in the country. In the 70s, as Argentina suffered through an economic crisis, the family was forced to sell the vineyards after 4 generations of operating in the family.

The eldest son went off to Buenos Aires, studied and eventually became a wealthy investment banker. After being so successful, he realized his greatest desire was to be a 5th generation winemaker. So back he returned to Mendoza, where he found an old bodega whose roof had collapsed and walls were crumbling. He bought the building, did a complete overhaul and built his house on the premises. He also sought out some of the finest old vines in the valley.

The result is an immaculate bodega and superb wines. By far, our favorite was the 2003 Reserve Cabernet Franc. Aside from being delicious, it was so unique and very different from anything else we have tried. They also had a delicious Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon.

It was strange to go through our first tasting (5 wines) without trying Argentina’s signature grape, Malbec. I think this is reflective of Benegas’s philosphy of creating unique wines that expand the definition of an Argentine wine.

Bodega Tapiz

Our next stop was Tapiz, which was the most informative tour of the day. We covered all topics from the growing techniques of the agronomists to the cellaring of the wines.  It also had a clear view to the Andes – a great spot for a few photos.

And, my favorite part was pouring and tasting directly from the tank.

Ruca Malen

Our lunch was at Bodega Ruca Malen. We were promised a 5 course, 5 wine meal, and we weren’t given anything less. Set among the vines, Ruca Malen has a direct, unobstructed view of the snow-capped Andes from the dining room. The view was perhaps the finest course of the meal.

The main course, a filet minot, was paired with two wines, a cabernet sauvignon and a Reserve Malbec from the Kinean line. All the wines were very good, but the Kinean Malbec was exceptional and really stood out in comparison to the full lineup and to other Malbecs in Argentina.

We finished lunch with a final photo op of the Andes. The clouds started to roll in, so we didn’t get the full effect, but it was still quite impressive.

Clos de Chacras

Our final stop was the small boutique winery of Clos de Chacras. It was hard to completely enjoy the winery and the wines, we were so full and had already consumed so much wine.

This was a beautiful boutique winery with wines that were very good, but nothing that surpassed what we had already tasted.

Mendoza is the center of the wine world in Argentina and was the original inspiration for our trip. There are many ways to encounter and experience the wines of Argentina, but we decided to start in town at The Vines of Mendoza tasting room, which began to feel like a home away from home.

Our Favorite Wine Bar

The Vines of Mendoza tasting room is perhaps the best way to sample the wines of the region. They specialize in boutique wines that you can’t find elsewhere.  

Our first visit was during our first week.  We went hoping to to sample some wines and get insights on bodegas to visit. While extremely comfortable and welcoming from the moment we arrived, it was strange to enter a place where the primary language was English. It felt slightly awkward and difficult to shed our habit of primarily trying to speak Spanish. Quickly, we found the right balance of Spanglish and the experience was memorable, the wines exceptional and the service wonderful.

That first night, we each had a flight of wine (5 small glasses). Carra’s highlighted Malbec wines and mine was 5 different varieties of reds (Syrah, Bonarda, Malbec, Cabernet and a blend). We also indulged in a plate of good cheese, which is one of the hardest and only things we can’t find in Argentina.

Winemaker’s Night at The Vines

One of the more unique aspects of The Vines were their weekly winemaker nights. We were able to participate in 2 such events – which is essentially an introduction by the owner or manager, sharing the philosophy and vision of the winery, followed by a guided tasting of their wines by the winemaker.

Our first night was with Sin Fin (translation: without end). We were treated to a bi-lingual presentation from the owners and the winemaker, all while partaking in bottomless (without end) glasses of Sin Fin wine. I was particularly drawn to the Cabernet Sauvignon, while Carra enjoyed the Malbec, which was a bit more fruit forward. Regardless, we appreciated all their wines.

Our final night in Mendoza was shared with Bodega Proemio. We had fallen in love with their 2004 Malbec Reserve previously, so we were very excited that they were the featured winery. We started the night with a pre-release, unlabeled, young Chardonnay. This was followed by a young Cabernet Sauvignon, the reserve Malbec and finally the Gran Reserve Malbec. We fell in love with both Malbecs. We are still debating whether we should ship a case home to enjoy over the next ten years…but I can guarantee it would never last that long.

You too can enjoy the Wines of Argentina

Keep up to speed by following The Vines of Mendoza Blog. You will have opportunities to get on conference calls with Michel Rolland and other industry luminaries, receive special offers, and discover the latest wines before everybody else.

Also, you can join the Acequia Wine Club. and receive shipments 4 times of year featuring hard to find wines from Argentina.  

Or, if you really desire owning your own vineyard, The Vines can help you realize that dream.  Check out the Private Vineyard Estates.